Langoustine with Homemade Garlic Mayonnaise

It's been a beautiful Spring day today, actual warm sunshine, birds singing, goats skipping round the Ouseburn with the river sparkling in the background. I think Spring is on the way... Saying that it is still only February so I'm probably getting carried away. I think it is meant to be frosty next week, but I'll embrace the sunshine while it lasts...

The lighter nights and slight warmth all bring a slight drift away from stews and soups... I spent Saturday morning wandering round the Grainger Market and came home with a bag of langoustine, some beautiful clams, two cute little gurnard and some cod. I should cook more fish, it's been quite a meaty winter, so the arrival of Spring seems like perfect timing.

The langoustine are pre cooked and just need cracking out of their spiky shells, they are sweet and delicious. As a treat I decided to make some homemade mayonnaise to dip the little fellas in. I turned to Elizabeth David for a lesson in mayonnaise. I've made it a few times now, it will take you about 5 minutes, and it is really much easier than you would think. It's quite different to what we have come to presume mayonnaise to be, that white gloop in a jar has become the norm and it seems wrong to me. Firstly I don’t know how it is white, when the two main ingredients are bright orange egg yolk and deep yellow extra virgin olive oil... I'm remembering a programme now where they talked about all kinds of weird substitute food stuffs they filled it with to make it the right consistency... Not very tasty. Let's move on...

The basic method is always the same, whisk oil into egg yolks and you get mayonnaise... simple. I decided to go for garlic mayonnaise this time, to go with the sweet delicious langoustine. I used 2 cloves of garlic and it nearly blew my head off so I would go for one clove... Pound this to a smooth paste with some salt in a pestle and mortar, and whisk in an egg yolk. It will take on a mayonnaise type consistency even at this stage. Then begin to whisk in the extra virgin olive oil, just a drip at a time at first, very slowly, and then a steadier stream. I used about 200ml of extra virgin olive oil, when about half of it is combined add the juice of ¼ lemon. You can use vinegar also, it's the acid that is needed, then add the rest of the oil.

If by any chance the mayonnaise splits or curdles add a fresh egg yolk to a clean bowl and whisk the split mixture into it a spoonful at a time and it will magically right itself. That's a little Elizabeth tip, that I have had to use on one occasion...

It tastes quite different to shop bought mayonnaise, you can really taste the oil, so use a nice one... The sweet little langoustine dipped in the creamy rich mayonnaise are a real treat, and you can use a bit of crusty brown bread to mop up any leftovers...

Cauliflower and Mascarpone Risotto with Spicy Chorizo

I have spent the weekend travelling the length of the country... It was a packed trip full of friends and family, parties and trips round the beautiful countryside. We drove round the grounds of Woburn Abbey on Saturday, it was very pretty, even in the rain, with huge herds of deer roaming all over the place. Unfortunately they huddled under the trees and we huddled in the car, as the torrential rain began to batter us with some force... Woburn is a beautiful little Georgian village in Bedfordshire, where we made a run for cover to a cosy little country pub, and ate and drank until the sun came out...

On Saturday night we danced around a cricket club to old Whitney hits at a lovely little birthday party. Add in constant eating, different cakes every day, quite a bit of wine, many different friends to visit and it all adds up to a bit of a tired Monday... It's a comfort food situation I think. There's been a few of them recently. After researching my article for Appetite magazine I have been cooking a lot of pies, slow stews and risottos. This one is a creamy mascarpone laced risotto with soft cauliflower and spicy hot chorizo scattered over the top.

To begin finely chop one medium onion and soften in some olive oil on a low heat until soft and translucent. Then add the risotto rice, I used 200g of arborio rice which served two people and a little for left overs. Add the rice to the onion, turn the heat up a little and cook for a few minutes until it starts to turn translucent at the edges. Then add a glass of white wine, anything old or new will do.

The wine will bubble and hiss as soon as you add it to the hot pan, so just stir until it's absorbed. Then begin to add the stock, a ladle at a time, stirring each until it is absorbed. I used chicken stock about 500ml, but just use water if it runs out. After the first ladle of stock chop half a small cauliflower into little pieces like peas and add to the rice.

Continue to add stock until the rice is creamy and cooked, but still has a little bite to it. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper to suit. Finally add 2 tablespoons of mascarpone and 2 tablespoons of grated parmesan cheese and stir everything together. Turn the heat off and put a lid on it, allowing it to sit for 5 minutes.

While it sits quickly dice up a handful of picante chorizo per person and fry off until hot and sizzling... Serve the creamy risotto in bowls and sprinkle over the chorizo with a little of its oil. The little spicy porky chorizo squares work perfectly with the creamy cheesy risotto and the earthy delicious cauliflower. I can't wait to grow more of my own this year...

Berry and Mascarpone Lemon Pastry Tartlets

I like Valentine's Day... I know it is tacky and naff, but I like a little romance, over planned, over hyped, over commercialised or not... I also just like an excuse to plan a menu, a menu that includes cute little berry tarts. Little tartlets of love! Ha!

I suppose I like certain elements of Valentine's Day... I liked the little chocolate hearts scattered over the table when I had guests at mine for supper last night, they looked really pretty... I like the section in Fenwick's with towers of tiny heart shaped boxes of truffles and bumper boxes of Love-Hearts, what's not to love about a sickly sweet candy with a naff message of love printed on it? I didn't like trying to choose a card for TLI surrounded by men in suits looking uncomfortable, nervous and a bit clammy. I don't like Valentine's cards I've realised, they are all naff, every single one... I watched the uncomfortable men pick up tiny heart shaped plates with 'love' written on them, they looked confused, was this what they were meant to be doing? I left the uncomfortable men to it, it was making me squirm...

These little tarts are very easy once you have made the sweet lemon pastry and that isn’t very difficult either... I found the recipe in one of the Ottolenghi books. This will make 18 little tartlets, the pastry will keep in the fridge for a week, or in the freezer for a month. Get a big bowl and add 330g of plain flour, 100g of icing sugar, the zest of half a lemon and quarter of a teaspoon of salt. Add 180g of cold unsalted butter cut into tiny cubes and rub it into the flour, mix it with your hands until it is a bread crumb like consistency. Add an egg yolk and 2 tablespoons of cold water and mix until you have a firm dough. Take the dough out of the bowl and knead it on the counter lightly for a few seconds, then wrap it in cling film and chill it until you need it.

Take your tart tins, or I used a muffin tin, and brush them with a thin layer of melted butter, then put them in the fridge to set. Sprinkle some flour on your work surface and roll out the pastry to about 3mm thick, cut out circles using a cutter or a mug and line your tins with pastry. Pop in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Pre heat the oven to 150°C and add some cling film or grease proof paper and baking beans to the middle of each tartlet. I use dried chickpeas as my baking beans, it stops the pastry from rising up when you bake it, make sure you put the cling film or grease proof paper in or the beans will stick in your pastry. Then put them in the oven to bake for 25 minutes until they are golden brown.

Remove the baking beans and paper and leave the tartlet cases to cool. When they are cool fill them with fresh mascarpone, topped with lots of berries and some chopped mint. Serve the little 'tartlets of love' straight away. The buttery lemony pastry is delicious with creamy mascarpone and sharp sweet berries.

I should have told the confused men in Fenwick's just to make some of these instead of puzzling over strange miniature crockery and bad cards...

Things on Toast

'Things on Toast' is what I eat when I'm tired and I don't really have any energy to cook. As in 'I can't really be bothered to make anything shall we just have 'things on toast'? A hunt through the fridge usually produces a couple of options; there's often some bacon lying around or chorizo or black pudding. Pork is always a welcome addition, eggs, stray vegetables, herbs... and the resulting meal is two little slices of toast, each with a different topping... It's actually one of my favourite meals, maybe not grand enough for weekend dining or guests, but a pretty lovely treat on a Tuesday in front of the TV... It began as cheese on toast, what better place to start, and has evolved, mainly over the past year, into a whole chapter of options...

One of the first guises of 'things on toast' was Lemony Courgettes, this was a Hugh recipe originally that I read in some supplement a long time ago. It is chopped courgettes cooked in olive oil, slowly, with a chopped clove of garlic added after about 10 minutes. Continue to cook them until very soft and a bit golden, then add lemon juice to taste, salt and pepper and a big handful of chopped mint... This is one of my favourites. The oil goes all green and lemony and delicious and soaks into the toast. I've also made a yoghurt with more chopped mint in it to dollop on the top in the past. This is probably the most complicated of my toast dishes.

Others include Bacon and Broad Beans on Toast. Fry diced bacon, blanch the beans, add the beans to the bacon pan with loads of chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. That's one of the easiest ones...

The scrambled eggs are self explanatory, but a few tips I have picked up from Elizabeth David; don't add milk, just lightly beat the eggs with a pinch of salt, they are ready before you think they are... Add the eggs to a pan and heat, I then take them on and off the heat as I'm cooking as I'm so fearful of an overdone scrambled egg. Take them off the heat finally before you think they are done, when they are creamy but still loose and a little raw, and continue to stir in the pan until they are soft and silky. Top with fried chorizo chunks.

The Chorizo, Chestnut and Thyme Toast is a new one to the list. Chestnuts fried slowly in butter for five minutes, add some diced chorizo and fresh thyme leaves and fry until the chorizo has turned a little brown but not too crispy. Add to the top of the toast with all the juices.

Wild mushrooms, fried with butter and garlic and lots of chopped parsley... I was given some lovely hedgehog mushrooms in the Autumn, they were pretty special. Sometimes it is just a bit of black pudding, especially if it is a really good one. Puréed fresh blanched broad beans and peas with mint, salt and pepper and olive oil, toast, black pudding and bacon, anyone fancy? Or just the Black Pudding with Broad Beans and Mint... I loved the Duck Hearts on Toast and have since tried duck liver as well, fried in butter with a splash of chicken stock and balsamic vinegar, it is totally delicious and not nearly as scary as it sounds! The combinations are interchangeable, the end result is always tasty... I will continue to expand my things on toast repertoire over the coming year and get back to you with more ideas...

Happy Birthday

It's my birthday, my blog birthday... It has been one whole year to the day since my first post. Which was an unassuming little Salt and Pepper Squid that started everything, and now here I am a year later. I don't blog everything I cook, just the things I'm proud of, that were delicious, you can find a list of all of them on my Recipe Page.

I just wanted to take a moment to say Happy Birthday to The Grazer... It has been a very tasty year and has brought about lots of new opportunities like Grazer Markets and my new column in Appetite Magazine, long may it continue to evolve... I thought about making a birthday cake, but instead I made a pie, every occasion deserves a pie... A Pheasant, Bacon and Pig Trotter Pie. Happy Birthday The Grazer...